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How to knit a Prayer Shawl on a Knit'n machine

A prayer shawl should measure approximately 25" wide (your cast on stitches) and 60" long (from your wrist to wrist)

Cast on a multiple of 3 stitches. Choose the total number of stitches based on the final width desired. If you're using worsted weight yarn, 57 stitches will work just fine. Now this is not rocket science and gauge is not a factor, but you will want your fabric not to be too tight or loose either.

Now choose your pattern, whether it be a Tuck, Slip or even a Thread Lace stitch. The number three has spiritual significance in many faiths and works well as a repeating, easily memorized pattern.

Work to the desired length and bind off loosely. Keep healing thoughts, prayers or blessings in mind as you work each stitch of the knit shawl. The prayer shawl should be long enough to wrap snugly and warmly around the shoulders. The length of the shawl may be from fingertip to fingertip with arms stretched out sideways, but not always have to be that way. Everyone is different.

You can put pockets on the ends for those that want to put their bible in one but sure would be nice if the other end had the same weight also so it won't stretch.

Cut lengths of yarn to around 6 inches to make fringe if desired. Use a simple slip knot to attach fringe to the ends of your prayer shawl. Add beads to the fringe if desired.

And your done.

Here is a Prayer Shawl with heart lace on the pockets. Done on the Singer Bulky but can be done on any machine with changing how many stitches and rows you get to your swatch gauge.

At TD7, CO 75 stitches. Work a top of the pocket, I did a reform to rib for 12 rows. Next I worked up 3 rows plain, then started in with my heart chart lace. But as this is worked, the pocket will be upside down, so I worked up my chart upside down as well. When done with my hand manipulation, I knitted 3 more rows.

For a turning row you can just bump your TD up to 10 for one row, then back to TD7. Or to make a more flattened turn row, turn your work around, knit 1 row, turn your work one more time and then start knitting until the end of the pocket to turn for the last time on one half.

Reset your counter here to zeros. I started my SAYG so that I would not have to sew up the pocket sides later. When I was on my last row, I hung 5 center stitches on the center needles. Knit 1 row.

Turn your work, if you have a garter bar, that will probably be the easiest way, but if not, just work up a few rows of WY, take off the machine, turn and rehang the last main color row.

I then proceeded to take the 3rd stitch from each end every other row and put onto the 2nd needle from the end to create the lace edge. If your stitches are not too tight, this will not curl. If it does curl, then maybe adding some crochet shells around the shawl will look nice as well.

I continued to row counter 210, keeping everything divisible by 3.

This is the end of my first half, worked up about 6 rows of WY, then took off the machine. Then made the 2nd half the same.

I then grafted the 2 pieces together, washed and lay it to dry to block.

Well my shawl is still curling a little on the outside edges, this is where I will add that shell crochet around the piece to make it more feminine and also help to keep it flat. I have heard of some that will steam to death their finished project, I myself have never done that. I have steamed some work and it will lay flat but when washed, it will curl again. I don't want the recipient that I made this for to have to do all that.



You may sell the item you make from this pattern (I do not have any right to tell you that you cannot sell the finished product, that is against the law - For more detail on this, please look at this page), you may not sell or give away the pattern itself. Nor shall it be put into any web page or magazine without my consent. Please email me first before doing so. All Rights Reserved
(c) Roberta Rose Kelley 2010

© Roberta Rose Kelley ~ All Rights Reserved